That last part is particularly important for one of the world’s coolest growing climates. Frankland Estate, the star in the local firmament, is not simply a big fish in a small pond; the second generation, organically-farmed property deserves recognition as one of the best Riesling producers in the country for its vibrant, aromatic wines and range of single-vineyard bottlings. Eventually, Prince Clemens Wenceslaus of Saxony decreed that every vine grown must be Riesling. Dry or off-dry wines that are around 8–10% abv are called kabinett. While Grüner Veltliner put this small nation on the mainstream wine-drinking map, it’s the steely, focused, age-worthy Rieslings that deserve close examination. Although that rule fell out of favor, it impacted the overall style of Mosel wine. A tangy Gavi di Gavi is the finest example of such a wine, though the lesser-known Favorita, often peachy and floral, also falls into this group. Slate also provides different flavor profiles for the grapes grown in it. The 20-acre, biodynamically farmed vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills sub-region was founded by Portlander Jimi Brooks in 1998. “The Mosel region and Riesling are uniquely suited to one another,” says Loosen. When it comes to tannins, Nebbiolo is the region’s king. “Red slate tends to produce wines with a darker aromatic profile and a more muscular structure. Why aren’t more people drinking Austrian Riesling? Jos. riesling notable regions. “The steep soils allow the sun to be caught ideally for the wines,” she says. Others to try: Heart & Hands, Bloomer Creek, Dr. Frank, Hermann J. Wiemer, Forge Cellars, Wine trail in Langenlois, Austria. These tend towards moderate alcohol levels (12-12.5%), often citrusy, with crisp acidity and no oak. As with every region … Other grapes grown in the Mosel include Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder), Kerner, Pinot Blanc, Dornfelder, Pinot Gris and Bacchus. She is a queen. Located in the far southwest corner, by German standards the Pfalz boasts balmy weather. Whether this article serves to preach to the converted or recruit for the newly devout, I think we can all conclude that Riesling should be winning the Game of Wines. The higher-quality vineyards are located alongside the Mosel River and its tributaries, as temperatures can be warmer there. For the more adventurous, the higher altitude regions of Gattinara and Ghemme can provide beautifully elegant, and slightly lighter examples of this noble grape. Thank You! Prüm. Most serious collectors have regarded the Mosel as noteworthy despite this. Austrian wine quality across the board is high, so there’s little risk when presented with an unknown producer. In an effort to lure both young and old to the Riesling side, Wines of Germany, representing the grape’s spiritual homeland, organizes a variety of consumer education campaigns. The most famous villages for these wines are Barolo and Barbaresco – themselves incorporating multiple communes and hamlets. The grape of renown in this region is Riesling, although other grapes thrive here like Elbling and Müller-Thurgau. As contributing Travel Editor Wine Enthusiast, I view the world through the lens of drink. (Photo by Lauren Mowery). For more approachable Piedmont wines – both in terms of when they can be drunk and also their price tag – Langhe Nebbiolo, from the hills surrounding these villages, is well worth exploring. Beerenauslese, or BA, wines are rare, but not nearly so as the honeyed Trockenbeerenauslese, or TBA, wines. The lower alcohol by volume (abv) and higher residual sugar is because full vinification, the conversion of almost all sugar to alcohol, can be challenging with cool climate grapes. All of Germany grows Riesling; it is the world’s number one producer of the grape. “You should be tempted to drink a second, and a third wine, since ‘desire for more’ is one of the attributes of a great wine, in our opinion.”. Following a series of poor vintages in the mid-1800s, German winemakers were permitted to add sugar to grape must before vinification, a process known as chaptalization. Vines are typically staked directly into the ground to help stabilize them. My favourite amongst these is Arneis – the name itself meaning “little rascal”, due to its capricious nature in the vineyard and winery. Barbera, in particular, is the everyday grape of Piedmont – and in most trattorias will be the house wine, served by the carafe, often slightly chilled. In terms of the red wines, Piedmont’s reputation has been built on Nebbiolo – the tannic, age-worthy grape that constitutes the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco (among others). “And the slate soils allow a very beautiful, salty minerality absorbed by the vines. “Blue slate is the most common in the region and yields very delicate wines, with primary fruit flavors that tend toward lemon, white peach and green apple,” says Ernst Loosen, owner/winemaker of the Mosel’s esteemed Dr. Exceptions exist, and off-dry styles have increased. Loosen, Sybille Kuntz, Egon Müller, Karthäuserhof, Zilliken, Clemens-Busch and Reinhold Haart. By the 18th century, the region had become more closely aligned with Riesling. Aurora Inn, Finger Lakes, New York. Their website even supplies pairing tips. Regardless of discussions over its name (and it has many, Spanna and Chiavennasca being just two), all are agreed that, in its finest expressions, Nebbiolo makes tannic, acidic and alcoholic wines with incredible depth and complexity of flavour. In the Mosel, there are also six districts, known as bereiche, and 19 vineyard designations, known as grosslage. Others to try: Nikolaihof, Rudi Pichler, Weingut Birgit Eichinger. Like every region in Italy, Piedmont has plenty of unique, indigenous grape varieties to intrigue and delight. This develops intense flavors without high alcohol, giving Mosel Rieslings their signature lightness and finesse.”. (Photo by Andrea Johnson Photography). We may earn a commission for purchases made through our links. Picking one of thirteen Anbaugebiete to highlight is like choosing your favorite child. Jos. By using our website you agree to our use of cookies and the terms of our, Tradition Meets Evolution in Modern Mosel, Welcome to winemag.com! Riesling is the underestimated Khaleesi, Mother of Dragons, Breaker of Chains (to that Pinot Grigio addiction) and Rightful Ruler of the Seven Kingdoms. While it is not the most tannic of wines, it is still best served with some food – even if only a small nibble of local cheese. The longer grapes stay on the vine, the riper they become. Intended to level the playing field in poor vintages, it had the opposite effect. “Riesling is a winter-hardy variety that benefits from the Mosel’s cool climate, where the grapes can ripen slowly over a long period. Just two days ago, I asked a waitress about the residual sugar of an unfamiliar brand on a notable restaurant’s by-the-glass list. A note on methodology: Borrowing from Germany wine law, I typically define wines as dry when containing less than 9 grams of sugar per liter, although residual sugar measurements should be taken in context with the amount of acidity in the wine.

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