Junya Watanabe’s models exalted that Italian evening ritual on Friday morning in Paris, strolling the curved catwalk dressed in jaunty topcoats, blazers, neat jeans and natty brogues. There they all were, with their retro-revered typefaces patch-worked into fragments of padded souvenir jackets on tailoring: Pirelli, the tire people; Brembo, the brake manufacturers; Abarth, the sports car makers. Models wore rooty platinum wigs and microphone-smudged red lipstick, and Harry’s thrift shop prom dresses were spliced and diced into tulle petticoats layered under leather skirts. Yet he ultimately wins you over with his fine tailoring, perfect pant shapes and his nimble, inimitable straddling of country chic and city slicker. Snippets of Italian dialogue, swooning and cinematic tracks like “Moon River” and some runway preening by models such as Sébastien Jondeau — Karl Lagerfeld’s longtime bodyguard and personal assistant — heightened the charm of this display of sartorial splendor. Get all the top news stories and alerts straight to your inbox. Junya Watanabe Man Men’s Fall 2020 40 Photos The show was repetitive, and some of Watanabe’s everything-but-the-kitchen-sink garments looked déjà … But if we’ve been seeing more of her lately (she performed at a Coach show in New York earlier this month), Harry has always lived in Watanabe’s mind’s eye. Sexy by Junya Watanabe was the collection’s official theme, an email explained. October 23, 2020 Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. Practical, affectionate, good-natured, real—the Watanabe vibe for men makes his show one of the most uplifting in Paris. Collaboration – which has become a hackneyed ploy by so many brands for seasonal attention – becomes a meaningful project between His bustier dresses were cut from impenetrable luggage leather and in at least one instance layered over a blazer. Please fill out this field with valid email address. 115 PHOTOS September 28, 2019 09:30 AM Sat, 28 Sep 2019 09:30:00 +0200 +0200. Watanabe tends to use the same ingredients for his masculine soup: dark denim, British woolens, bits of outdoorsy ruggedness and a dash of city slicker. An assistant pulled up a group photo of a trip to its HQ on her phone. “Classico” was the title of the collection, realized via a slew of collaborations with specialty manufacturers, including Caruso for jackets, New Balance for sneakers and Moto Guzzi for pit-crew puffers. By subscribing, you agree to our All this was marched out on winklepicker booties made in collaboration with Tricker’s, the English footwear company. Ad Choices. • Rosemary Feitelberg. • Sandra Salibian, clock That the Blondie frontwoman and punk pinup has special meaning for Watanabe was clear from the runway. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement (updated 1/1/20) and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement (updated 1/1/20) and Your California Privacy Rights. But this season he souped things up further with retro car racing and moto jackets, splicing panels of them into sport coats and tailored outerwear — many emblazoned with logo patches of famed Italian auto or motorcycle parts brands. That’s what set him off on the Italian racing car track, and wanting to collaborate with an exhaustive list of brands in that world for use of their logos. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. Anyone who spends time in Italy—as Junya Watanabe does—recognizes these sorts of guys. The show was repetitive, and some of Watanabe’s everything-but-the-kitchen-sink garments looked déjà vu, particularly his patched-up hobo jeans. “There, there he is,” she said, pointing to an idol of sophistication with a swept-back gray mane, sporting a three-piece suit with that casual raffishness only age can bring. © 2020 Condé Nast. Junya Watanabe, typically, had one word—the perfect word—to sum up his show in praise of Italian dudes: classico! © 2020 Condé Nast. Occasionally perfecto leathers, another Watanabe fetish, fronted his tailoring. And so on. 93 View slideshow SHARE OTHER COLLECTIONS Junya Watanabe. Feb 25, 2020 - Junya Watanabe at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2016 - Details Runway Photos That’s a concept that also happens to be trending lately, but Watanabe’s sexy is not the slinky or skin-baring kind. All rights reserved. Then there was “Heart of Glass” and “Call Me” on the soundtrack. Privacy Policy and Junya Watanabe Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews. Each season he basically writes an ever-expanding encyclopedia on the subject, an index of ongoing collaborators. Terms of Use. Junya Watanabe Man … Sexy by Junya Watanabe was the collection’s official theme, an email explained. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. Camel coats shrugged on, tweeds implanted with racing car jackets, gold chains flashing at their necks, the odd paisley scarf tucked into an unbuttoned shirt here, a pair of white-framed aviators there...before you knew it, Watanabe had us making up whole scenarios about these eye-catching guys, and whatever mysterious, lucrative businesses they might be involved in. Mood board: Junya Watanabe could teach our testy politicians a thing or two about the essence of collaboration. All rights reserved. Junya Watanabe Fall 2020 Menswear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews. Roberto Cavalli Appoints Fausto Puglisi as Creative Consultant, Holiday Shopping Season 2020: When to Shop, What to Know, Retailers Put Safety First in Advance of Presidential Election, Charles Jeffrey Brings Hope, and More, to Dover Street Market. Watanabe gave more information this time; he said the collection was inspired by the head of the textiles company with whom he works in Italy. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement (updated 1/1/20) and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement (updated 1/1/20) and Your California Privacy Rights. Since the early 1990s, he has worked in partnership with heritage brands and specialists in their fields to create hybrid garments. This was Watanabe’s love letter to Harry, but the resulting message wasn’t so much “call me” as “watch out” or, maybe, “thank you, but I’m self-partnered.” That seems like the right adjustment for our times and for the designer’s fans. 114 View slideshow SHARE OTHER COLLECTIONS Junya Watanabe Man. Debbie Harry’s memoir, Face It, was published late last year, just about the time that Junya Watanabe would have been beginning to work on his new collection. © Copyright 2020  -  Penske Media Corporation, clock Junya Watanabe Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2020 Paris Credits: Regis Colin for NOWFASHION. (Sorry Canada Goose and Gieves & Hawkes.). 145 PHOTOS June 22, 2018 10:00 AM Fri, 22 Jun 2018 10:00:00 +0200 +0200. Otherwise, we were treated to the kinds of deconstructions that qualify as Watanabe classics now: jackets scissored down the back and makeshift-ed back together with different ones, or simply worn as half-jackets held in place with a shoulder strap or belt. A society of immaculately grizzled dressers had nonchalantly strolled his runway, trilbies and flat caps set just so, as if on their way—no rush—to some sort of meetup. “And he drives a Lexus sports car,” she added, translating Watanabe’s words, “open-top.”. Ad Choices. They’re a familiar sight in any town, possessed of an enviable style that speaks to the background of Italian industry; in this case, it’s super high-grade car manufacturing, and the multiplicity of specialist engineering companies that supply it. October 23, 2020 rep said after the show. Some of them nodded to each other, shook hands, back slapped. Bondage straps outlined and shaped the bust above double-breasted coats and single-breasted jackets, but just as often those straps acted as accessory harnesses, with quilted bags and fanny packs and hip-slung panniers hooked onto them. Junya Watanabe Man Menswear Fall Winter 2020 Paris Credits: Ivan Marianelli for NOWFASHION. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. The notion of being in a club, in the know, sporting the signs and symbols of authentic provenance–Junya Watanabe’s work is all about the language of masculine identity. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. Viva la passeggiata! There were so many tie-ups, four didn’t make it to the runway. “She was the one, when he was a young man,” a P.R. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers.

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